Petrolatum in Cosmetics and Petroleum Jelly Formulation

Petrolatum in Cosmetics and Petroleum Jelly Formulation: A Complete Educational Overview

Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, has been one of the most widely used ingredients in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations for over a century. It plays a vital role in skincare products ranging from lip balms and hand creams to ointments and intensive moisturizers. Due to its ability to form a protective occlusive barrier, it effectively locks in hydration and supports the skin’s natural repair mechanisms. This article explores petrolatum in cosmetics and petroleum jelly formulation, presenting scientific insights, usage data, and formulation techniques drawn from reputable sources including PubMed, CIR, and dermatological literature.

What Is Petrolatum in Cosmetics?

Definition, INCI & Composition (CAS 8009-03-8; EC 232-373-2)

Petrolatum is listed under the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) as a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons derived from petroleum refining. It appears under CAS number 8009-03-8 and EC number 232-373-2. According to the journal ‘Petroleum Jelly: A Comprehensive Review of its History, Uses, and Safety’ (PubMed 37315800), petrolatum is fully refined, odorless, colorless, and physiologically inert when processed to cosmetic or pharmaceutical standards. Its molecular composition enables it to create a stable, non-reactive film on the skin that helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Petrolatum’s high molecular weight and hydrophobic properties make it resistant to oxidation and chemical degradation. This stability contributes to its long shelf life and compatibility with a variety of cosmetic formulations such as creams, balms, and lotions. Due to its established role in petroleum medicine use within pharmaceutical and dermatology applications, petrolatum is also widely incorporated in medical ointments and wound-care products, ensuring effective skin protection and moisture retention.

How Petrolatum Works: Occlusion, TEWL Reduction & Barrier Repair

One of the primary functions of petrolatum in cosmetics is its occlusive ability. It forms a semi-permeable film that reduces TEWL and enhances hydration. Research shows that a minimum 5% concentration of petrolatum can reduce water loss by over 98% (MDedge, 2023). Additionally, studies in Acta Dermato-Venereologica found that petrolatum improves stratum corneum lipid organization and accelerates skin barrier recovery by 50%.

By reinforcing the lipid matrix, petrolatum helps retain natural moisture and protects against environmental irritants. This mechanism is why petrolatum is a preferred ingredient in formulations for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin.

White vs. Yellow Grades for Cosmetic Use (Refinement & Purity)

White petrolatum, used in premium skincare and pharmaceutical formulations, undergoes multiple refining steps to remove polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and other impurities. In contrast, yellow petrolatum is less refined and more suitable for industrial or mechanical applications. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) confirms that only fully refined white petrolatum meeting purity standards is safe for use in cosmetic products. Refinement not only ensures safety but also improves texture, transparency, and odor profile.

Petroleum Cosmetics: Core Skin Benefits & Use Cases

Hydration & Barrier Support for Dry/Sensitive Skin

Petrolatum is a gold-standard moisturizer for treating dry and sensitive skin. It acts as a skin protectant that softens, smoothens, and restores elasticity. Clinical studies have demonstrated that petrolatum can reduce TEWL by approximately 50% and enhance epidermal water content significantly. Its occlusive property provides a shield that allows the skin’s natural barrier to repair itself. This function makes petrolatum invaluable in managing eczema, xerosis, and post-procedural dryness.

Soothing Chapped Lips, Hands, and Body (Everyday Care)

Cosmetic formulations featuring petrolatum, such as lip balms, body creams, and hand ointments, provide immediate relief from dryness. According to MakingCosmetics.com, including 5–20% petrolatum in formulations optimizes hydration without leaving an overly greasy feel. Its ability to seal microcracks in the epidermis also prevents secondary infections and irritation.

Petrolatum for Cosmetics Lotions, Balms, and Ointments: When to Choose Each Format (Sensory & Occlusivity)

In lotions, petrolatum concentrations typically range from 1–5%, offering light moisturization ideal for daily use. Creams and balms usually include 5–20%, balancing hydration with a pleasant texture, while ointments for barrier repair may contain 30–100% petrolatum (Penreco, 2024). Choosing the right concentration depends on desired occlusivity, target skin type, and consumer preference for sensory experience.

For instance, lighter lotions appeal to consumers seeking quick absorption, whereas thicker ointments cater to medical-grade applications requiring maximum protection.

Petroleum Jelly Formulation — Practical Guide

Typical Use Levels in Lotions, Creams, Ointments & Balms

Formulating with petroleum jelly requires understanding of balance between occlusion, aesthetics, and stability. Lotions generally include 1–5% petrolatum for subtle moisture, creams 5–20% for medium occlusion, and ointments 30–100% for maximum protection. These ranges are supported by formulation guidelines from MakingCosmetics and validated industry practice. Considering its historical petroleum jelly origin linked to petroleum refining and the development of Vaseline in cosmetic chemistry, its proven enhancement of skin barrier function further justifies its varied inclusion levels in topical products.

Because petrolatum has a high viscosity, formulators often adjust ratios of emollients and humectants to ensure spreadability and absorption balance. In some cases, blending with lightweight esters or silicones can improve sensorial quality.

Process & Stability: Melting Range, Viscosity Targets, and Homogeneous Incorporation

Petrolatum melts between 38°C and 60°C, making it suitable for incorporation into emulsions during the oil phase. Homogeneous blending is crucial to avoid separation and ensure a consistent texture. Maintaining proper shear mixing during cooling helps prevent air entrapment and phase separation, contributing to long-term stability.

Compatibility with Actives (Retinoids, AHAs/BHAs), Fragrances & Preservative Strategy (Anhydrous Systems)

In anhydrous systems, petrolatum provides an ideal base because its absence of water minimizes microbial growth. It is compatible with a wide range of active ingredients, including retinoids, vitamin E, and mild exfoliants such as lactic acid, provided formulation pH and solubility balance are maintained. For fragranced formulations, neutral odor white petrolatum ensures no scent distortion.

Sensory Optimization: Pairing with Emollients (Mineral Oil, Esters) & Humectants (Glycerin, Urea)

To create a more pleasant sensory profile, petrolatum can be combined with other emollients like mineral oil or natural esters to enhance glide and reduce tackiness. Adding humectants such as glycerin or urea increases the skin’s water-binding capacity and improves hydration synergy. Balancing these components allows formulators to achieve elegant, consumer-friendly products that perform effectively.

Safety & Regulations for Petrolatum in Cosmetics

Fully Refined Petrolatum & PAH Considerations (Why Refining History Matters)

The safety of petrolatum in cosmetics depends largely on its refining history. According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) safety report, fully refined petrolatum free from PAHs is considered safe for use in cosmetics. A 2022 International Journal of Pharmacy & Clinical Research (IJPCR) study of 440 patients reported only 0.03% incidence of allergic contact dermatitis associated with petrolatum, demonstrating its hypoallergenic nature. Refinement eliminates carcinogenic impurities, ensuring compliance with global safety standards. The rising demand in the Iran cosmetic and skincare sector has stimulated investment in the domestic manufacture of iran petroleum jelly, aligning local production with international quality benchmarks.

EU & US Compliance: CosIng/EU 1223/2009, CIR/PCPC, OTC Crossover

In Europe, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 stipulates that petrolatum can only be used in cosmetics if a full refining history shows that it is free of harmful contaminants. In the United States, the FDA and Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) recognize white petrolatum as a safe ingredient for both OTC and cosmetic applications. These harmonized regulations ensure consistent quality and safety for consumers worldwide.

Consumer Safety Profile (Non-comedogenic, Low Sensitization) with Medical Context

Clinical data confirm that petrolatum is non-comedogenic and does not clog pores when fully refined. It is widely used in dermatology as a base for sensitive-skin formulations and post-procedure care. Dermatologists recommend petrolatum-based products for compromised skin because they provide effective protection without irritation.

How to Use Petrolatum in Cosmetic Routines

Layering Strategy: Apply Over Humectants; Night-time Occlusion (“Slugging”) Considerations

A popular skincare technique known as ‘slugging’ involves applying a thin layer of petrolatum as the last step of a nighttime skincare routine. This method helps seal in moisture from previously applied humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid. By maintaining hydration overnight, it promotes smoother, plumper skin in the morning.

Skin Types & Seasons: Dry/Compromised Barriers vs. Oily/Acne-Prone

Petrolatum-based cosmetics are ideal for dry or sensitive skin types, especially in cold or low-humidity environments. Individuals with oily or acne-prone skin can still benefit from lightweight formulations, particularly those containing less than 5% petrolatum. Seasonal adjustments—heavier products in winter and lighter ones in summer—help maintain balanced hydration year-round.

Do’s & Don’ts: Around Eyes, On Damp Skin, Over Actives (Titration)

Do apply petrolatum on slightly damp skin to maximize hydration retention. Avoid direct application inside the eyes or on deep wounds. When layering over actives such as acids or retinoids, allow full absorption before applying petrolatum to prevent over-occlusion or irritation.

FAQs about Petrolatum in Cosmetics & Petroleum Jelly Formulation

Is petrolatum safe in cosmetics when fully refined?

Yes. When fully refined, petrolatum meets the purity criteria set by the CIR and EU regulations. Its long-standing use and minimal adverse reaction rates confirm its safety profile.

Does petrolatum clog pores or cause breakouts? (Myths vs. Evidence)

Contrary to popular myths, refined petrolatum does not block pores or trigger acne. Studies confirm that it creates a breathable occlusive layer that allows natural sebum regulation.

What’s the difference between cosmetic-grade and pharmaceutical-grade petrolatum?

Pharmaceutical-grade petrolatum undergoes more stringent purification and testing to ensure sterility for medical use. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum adheres to slightly broader specifications but still maintains high safety and refinement standards.

Can I combine petrolatum with retinoids or acids in my routine? (Compatibility Tips)

Yes. Petrolatum can safely be layered over retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids to reduce irritation and enhance barrier protection. This combination is often recommended by dermatologists for sensitive or compromised skin.

In conclusion, petrolatum in cosmetics and petroleum jelly formulation represent a perfect balance between scientific efficacy and consumer safety. It remains one of the most effective, versatile, and safe ingredients for maintaining skin hydration and barrier integrity. From lotions and creams to ointments and balms, properly formulated petrolatum continues to support healthy, resilient skin in modern cosmetic science.

Alireza avesta

This is Kamran Malekian working in the petroleum jelly manufacturing industry for Navid Noor Company since 2013 I am eager to make content in this industry and have a good impact on professional users and people using cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

www.navidnoor.ir/